“I feel a gigantic responsibility to get it right,” says the Australian chef Peter Gilmore as he surveys the cathedral-like dining room of Sydney Opera House’s Bennelong restaurant, which he newly helms. It is a highly scrutinized stage; and in the 42 years since the Sydney Opera House first welcomed diners at Bennelong, a succession of high-profile restaurateurs have run the famous kitchen — and ultimately been brought undone by the unique pressures of operating under the iconic white sails.

Read the full story at the New York Times Style Magazine, 28 September 2015

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